Buying a hiking shoe that genuinely suits you is less straightforward than it looks. Your shoes have to match how and where you walk. And before you commit, you need to be sure they fit perfectly.
Types of hiking footwear
Low cut shoes
Low cut models with a flexible midsole are excellent for day walks. Some ultralight trekkers even choose trail running shoes for long distances.
Day hiking boots
These run from mid cut to high cut and are meant for day walks or short trips with a light pack. They flex easily and need little breaking in, but they lack the support and durability of proper trekking boots.
Trekking boots
These are built to carry heavier loads on multi day trips deep into the wilderness. Most have a high cut that wraps above the ankle for extra support. They are sturdy and durable, with a stiffer midsole than lighter footwear, and suit both trails and off trail terrain.
The upper
What goes into the upper, the midsole and the outsole determines the weight, breathability, durability and waterproofing of your shoe. A little insight there helps you choose more precisely.
Full grain leather
Full grain leather is exceptionally durable, abrasion resistant and highly water resistant. You find it mainly in trekking boots built for long trips, heavy loads and rough terrain. It is less light and less breathable than nylon and split leather combinations, and it needs proper breaking in before a long trip.
Split grain leather
Split grain leather is usually paired with nylon or nylon mesh to create a light shoe that breathes very well. Splitting separates the rough inner part of the hide from the smooth outer surface. The advantage is a lower price, the drawback less resistance to water and abrasion, although many models have a waterproof lining.
Nubuck leather
Nubuck is full grain leather buffed to resemble suede. It is very durable and resists water and abrasion well. It is also fairly flexible, but here too you need to break the shoes in first.
Synthetic materials
Polyester, nylon and synthetic leather are common in modern footwear. They are lighter than leather, break in faster, dry faster and generally cost less. The downside is that they show wear sooner, because there is more stitching on the outside.
Waterproof membrane
Shoes sold as waterproof have an upper built with a waterproof, breathable membrane that keeps your feet dry in wet conditions. The downside is that such a membrane breathes less than the ventilating mesh on non waterproof shoes, so your feet sweat more on warm summer days.
Insulation
Synthetic insulation is added to some mountaineering boots, for warmth when walking on snow and glaciers.
Vegan
Vegan hiking shoes are made without any animal ingredients or by products.
The midsole
The midsole provides cushioning, protects your feet from impact and largely determines how stiff a shoe is. Stiff may not sound appealing, but on long trips over rocky, uneven ground it actually gives more comfort and stability. A stiff shoe stops your foot from wrapping around every rock or root. The most common materials are EVA and polyurethane.
EVA
EVA is softer, lighter and cheaper. Manufacturers use different densities to add firmer support where it is needed, for instance around the forefoot.
Polyurethane
Polyurethane is generally firmer and more durable, which is why you find it mainly in trekking and mountaineering boots.
Shanks
These inserts, 3 to 5 millimetres thick, sit between the midsole and the outsole and stiffen the midsole so it can carry more load. They vary in length: some run the full length of the sole, others only half.
Plates
These thin, semi flexible inserts sit between the midsole and the outsole, below the shank. They protect your feet from bruising on roots and sharp rocks.
The outsole
Every hiking sole is rubber. On trekking and mountaineering boots, carbon is sometimes added to harden it. Harder soles last longer, but can feel slippery once you step off the trail.
The tread: the lugs on the sole provide grip. Deeper, thicker lugs are found on trekking and mountaineering boots. Widely spaced lugs give good grip and shed mud more easily.
The heel brake: this is the clearly defined heel zone, distinct from the forefoot and the arch. It reduces the chance of slipping on steep descents.
Crampon compatibility: if you plan to mountaineer or trek in winter, it is essential that your boots and crampons are matched to each other. That is a question of safety.
Getting the fit right
Nobody enjoys badly fitting shoes. The difference between blisters and bliss is simply taking the time to find a good fit.
Hiking shoes should sit snugly everywhere, pinch nowhere, and leave enough room to move your toes. Try them at the end of the day, when your feet have swollen slightly, and with the socks you actually intend to wear.
If you wear orthotic insoles, bring them along. They affect the fit.
Choose the right socks. Familiar socks help you judge new shoes faster. Make sure the thickness matches what you will wear on the trail. And on the trail itself, choose synthetic socks over slow drying cotton, which causes blisters sooner.
Take your time in the shop. Walk a lap, go up and down a staircase, and find a sloped surface to stand on.
Watch for these points and raise them with the salesperson: you should not feel odd bumps or seams, no pinching across the forefoot, and your toes should not touch the front when you stand on a downhill slope. If the laces are done up firmly and you still feel space on top of your foot, the volume of the shoe is wrong for you.
If you buy online, choose a brand you have worn before. Most manufacturers use a consistent last over the years, so the fit is likely to be similar.
Finally, consider aftermarket insoles. They come in versions that improve comfort, support or fit, and sometimes all three at once.
Tip: break your boots in
Break your boots in before your first trip. Wear them to work, walk to the shops in them, keep them on around the house while they are still clean. The more hours you put in, the better. Buying new boots right before a five day trek is a bad idea.