The story of
this expedition
From Brussels you fly to Switzerland, and the last stretch to Zermatt is by train, because ordinary cars are not allowed in the village. Above the rooftops stands the Matterhorn, on its own, with four ridges meeting in a narrow summit at 4,478 metres. The ridge you see straight ahead from the village is the Hörnli ridge. That is the way we climb.
For the first days we leave the Matterhorn alone. We climb four thousand metre peaks nearby, as a rope team on snow and ice, and practise on rock with the mountain guides. Your body gets used to the thin air, and you get used to your crampons, your harness and the pace. Only then do we take the cable car to Schwarzsee and walk up to the Hörnli hut, at the foot of the ridge.
On summit day you set off in the dark, one to one with a certified mountain guide. You climb almost twelve hundred metres over rock, using your hands, along fixed ropes on the steepest sections and the last part on crampons over snow and ice. The summit itself is narrow, with Switzerland on one side and Italy on the other. Then the descent begins down the same ridge, and it asks as much of you as the climb.
On the ice
acclimatising on four thousandersBefore we start on the Matterhorn, we climb a few four thousand metre peaks near Zermatt, such as the Breithorn or the Allalinhorn. You move as a rope team across glaciers and snow ridges, with crampons and ice axe, and you feel what altitude does to your breathing and your pace. There is also a day on rock, on a via ferrata or at a climbing crag, to practise the moves you will need on the ridge. These days are not a warm up: your body needs time to adjust, and your mountain guide wants to see how you move before you head for the summit together.
To the hut
the Hörnli hut at 3,260 metresFrom Zermatt a cable car takes us up to Schwarzsee, at 2,583 metres. From there it is a walk of two to three hours to the Hörnli hut at 3,260 metres, first on a mountain path and higher up over rock and a metal walkway fixed to the face. The hut sits at the foot of the ridge, with the climbing route straight above you. We eat early, go through the route and the gear with the mountain guides and turn in early, because the night is short. This is where you first see up close how steep the Hörnli ridge is.
On the ridge
4,478 metres, one to oneSummit day starts in the dark, by headtorch, roped one to one to your mountain guide. The Hörnli ridge is almost twelve hundred metres of climbing and scrambling on rock, with fixed ropes on the steepest sections and snow and ice higher up, where you put on crampons. On the way you pass the Solvay hut, a small emergency shelter on the ridge at 4,003 metres. From the hut to the summit and back takes eight to ten hours, and the descent down the same ridge needs as much care as the climb. The weather and the conditions decide whether we go, which is why we keep a reserve day free.
What makes this
expedition unique?
The Hörnli ridge
The classic route to the 4,478 metre summit, the same ridge as the first ascent in 1865.
Four thousanders first
Acclimatising as a rope team on snow and ice, on peaks around Zermatt.
One to one on the rope
On summit day you climb with your own certified mountain guide.
A night in the Hörnli hut
Sleeping at 3,260 metres, at the foot of the ridge.
The Matterhorn is not a mountain you learn on the way up. You arrive with experience on rock and on crampons, and with the fitness for a long day without a real break. That is why we build up first on nearby four thousanders. On summit day you no longer want to think about your gear, only about your next step.Koen De LeeuwFounder and expedition leader, known from De Expeditie on PlayParacommando · Wilderness First Responder Meet Koen
De Expeditie
De Tijd
Humo
Play MediaHow we
work
Self-sufficient,
never alone
You carry your own pack, climb under your own steam and are a full member of your rope team. In the valley we stay in Zermatt, on the mountain in the Hörnli hut at 3,260 metres, the last night before the summit.
You learn to move on crampons, climb on the rope and keep your pace for a whole day at altitude, with certified mountain guides and an experienced X Guide whom you meet well in advance during the preparation programme.
Safety and
guidance
You step into the mountains, away from the beaten track, but always with experienced guidance and safety first.
Safety is our top priority. On the mountain you climb with certified mountain guides, one to one on summit day. Our X Guides hold WFR certificates and have years of experience in the mountains.
We carry satellite communication, work with fixed safety procedures and an evacuation plan, and have local support in Switzerland.
Before departure we carry out a thorough risk assessment. On the spot, the weather and the conditions on the ridge decide whether we set off.
Preparation
of 3 to 6 months
The programme starts after you sign up with a kick off. Monthly group training sessions and a technical training follow, with a final check two weeks before departure.
Everything
at a glance
All prices are per person and exclude flights. We book flights together with you during the preparation programme.
- Departure
- July to August 2028
- Duration
- ± 7 days. We set the programme and exact dates together with the group.
- Level
- Challenge4/5
- Group
- Small, selected group
- Price
- €10,500 ppIncl. preparation programme
Included
- Full 3 to 6 month preparation programme
- Professional X Guides
- Certified mountain guide at a one to one ratio on summit day
- Technical climbing gear (crampons, ice axe, harness, rope, helmet)
- Acclimatisation summits around Zermatt with mountain guides
- All overnight stays (mountain huts and valley)
- All meals during the expedition
- All local transport and mountain lifts
- Local activities
- All local tips
Not included
- Flights
- Transport to and from the airport
- Personal clothing and footwear
- Insurance (cancellation + search and rescue)
Frequently asked questions
See all questionsCan I climb the Matterhorn without experience?
No. You need experience of climbing on rock and moving on crampons, and the fitness for a long day at altitude. During the intake we go through what you have already done. In the preparation programme you keep working on fitness and technique, with a technical training for this expedition, and on the spot we first practise on four thousand metre peaks nearby.
How difficult is the Hörnli ridge?
The Hörnli ridge is the normal route from Switzerland and is graded AD (assez difficile), with climbing up to about grade III. It is not extreme technically, but it is long, steep and exposed, with almost twelve hundred metres of ascent from the hut. Higher up there are fixed ropes and often snow and ice, where you wear crampons. The level is Challenge (4/5).
How long does it take to climb the Matterhorn?
The expedition lasts about 7 days. The first days we acclimatise on four thousanders around Zermatt. Then we walk up to the Hörnli hut and summit day follows: from the hut to the top and back usually takes eight to ten hours. We keep a reserve day free, so we can wait for a good weather window.
How dangerous is the Matterhorn?
The Matterhorn is a serious mountain. The main risks are rockfall, fast changing weather and fatigue on the descent. Safety is our top priority: on summit day you climb one to one with a certified mountain guide, our X Guides hold a Wilderness First Responder certificate, and we work with satellite communication and an evacuation plan. The weather and the conditions on the ridge decide whether we set off, and your mountain guide decides whether to carry on or turn back.
Will I get altitude sickness at 4,478 metres?
It is possible, which is why we acclimatise first. We climb four thousanders nearby, such as the Breithorn or the Allalinhorn, and spend the night before the summit in the Hörnli hut at 3,260 metres. That way your body adapts to the altitude step by step. If you notice symptoms such as a headache or nausea, tell your mountain guide and your expedition leader straight away.
When is the best time to climb the Matterhorn?
July and August. That is when there is the least snow on the ridge and the Hörnli hut is open. Zermatt is warm in summer, but it can freeze on the summit even then, and the weather can turn within a few hours. We set the exact dates together with the group.
Where do we sleep and how do I get to Zermatt?
In the valley we stay in Zermatt, and the night before the summit in the Hörnli hut on the ridge. You fly to Switzerland; the last stretch to Zermatt is by train, as ordinary cars are not allowed in the village. We book flights with you during the preparation programme and invoice them separately. Transport to and from the airport is not included.
What does the expedition cost and what is included?
The expedition costs €10,500 pp, excluding flights. Included: the 3 to 6 month preparation programme, professional X Guides, a certified mountain guide one to one on summit day, the technical climbing gear, all overnight stays and meals, local transport and mountain lifts. Not included: flights, transport to and from the airport, personal clothing and insurance (cancellation and search and rescue).
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Your expedition on the Matterhorn
starts with a conversation
Your preparation is included and starts 3 to 6 months before departure.